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Volnay – Dancing on the dark side
By Peter | June 19, 2008
A quick report on a delightful tasting last week, organised by Genesis Wines, and hosted by Etienne de Montille. All the wines came from the Domaine’ reserves and were in tip-top condition.
The top wines – nay, all the wines - of this Domaine are fairly austere, and seem to need 10 to 15 years, even in the lighter vintages to become approachable. The Volnay Mitans that we tried, and which inspired the title, was deep and dark and seemed to have a really wild, animal fur aspect to it. Les Mitans lies low down on the slope, below the village and near to les Carelles and les Angles. Not particularly auspicious terrain, and I wouldn’t have expected it to have this character, which Etienne ascribed to the fact that their vines here suffer from “dégeneracion”. Fanleaf degeneration is a incurable viral disease, which gives, as you might expect, deformed leaves, poor fruit set and very small berries. These small, thick-skinned berries give the much darker, denser more spicy/meaty character than you might normally expect from Volnay.
The same character was evinced in the ‘93 and ‘95 served. The ’95, though almost ready, was at a much lower level of intensity and satisfaction than the ’93 which is probably still 5 years away from its peak..
These were followed by the Pommard Rugiens ’89, the last vintage of apprenticeship for Etienne before he took full control with the ‘90s. This didn’t have the class that I expected, although perhaps that is down to the fairly loose-knit character of the vintage. It was full, square, a little meaty and firmly tannic - quite Pommard in fact. It’s fair to say that I had much higher hopes for this wine, which was acceptable rather than exciting.
I loved the intensity and character of the Domaine red wines, though they were not universally liked. If there were one complaint it would be a lack of finesse – though perhaps the ’93 will get there in time. The negociant wines “Maison deUX Montille” were rather bland and forward by comparison. To round off the evening, the Domaine Puligny Caillerets 99 “en magnum” - and perfectly matched with Berkswell, a soft, washed rind cowsmilk cheese - was a real treat.
Pol Roger 1999
Seemed a little closed and even oxidised at first, but opened up nicely. Really vibrantly fruity – for me apricots – and nicely bready. Just a touch of licorice bitterness on the finish puts me off. 3
Deux Montille Pernand-Vergelesses Sous Fretille 2005
Green fruited, rather fatty nose. Broad but rather unfocused, with a nicely judged very light use of oak. Well made but uninspiring, and not for keeping. 3-
Deux Montille Meursault Poruzots 2005
Vibrant spicy, appley nose. Nice nuttiness underneath with a touch of bacon fat. Worryingly also a touch oxidative and rather flabby. Mouth shows real poise and crisp fruit : rather better than the nose, but with traces of sherry and peardrops on the back end. I would worry about incipient POX with this so worth checking on if you have any. 3+
Deux Montille Chambolle-Musigny Babilleres 2005
Very deep ruby, quite beautiful to look at. No paler rim to speak of. Frivolous nose – lots of cherry fruit, but also a touch estery – perhaps cherry lozenge is the best description. Very delicately oaked – lovely soft and flowery mouth entry with fairly good depth of red and black fruits. The oak shows on the mid-palate, but isn’t at all overpowering. Really quite easy. Too easy – it doesn’t offer any interest for me. Quite short on the finish but smooth and complete. Drinking nicely now, but not a long keeper, and no apparent relation of the estate wines. 3
Domaine de Montille Volnay 1er Mitans 1993
Quite amazingly dark blood/ruby. Narrow paler rim with just a touch of brick. Beautiful, vibrant nose that both shocks and seduces – lots of perfume and dark fruits rolled up with animal fur. Shows great depth and minerality - quite awesome. Mouth entry is powerful with vibrant red fruits and striking acidity. Medium/full-bodied on the mid-palate which shows rich cherry and bramble fruit with loads of depth and just a touch of gaminess. Finish is long, sweet and earthy. This was hugely enjoyable with the lamb served, but tasted alone later the tannic structure is still quite commanding. Without doubt the best red wine of the night, and still 5 to 10 year from its peak. 4+
Domaine de Montille Volnay 1er Mitans 1995
Only mid ruby – shockingly light when compared to the ’93 served alongside, they must have really dialled back the extraction here – fading gracefully at the rim, which is showing some bricking. The terroir is striking here – with the character of the nose exactly the same as the ’93 but less intense, perhaps even a touch ponderous. Mouth entry is lovely and velvety with quite some spice showing. Mid-palate is just medium weight, a touch estery and with ripe red fruit and sousbois. Tannins a touch bitter on the finish. More advanced than the ’93, this doesn’t have the depth or class. 3+
Domaine de Montille Pommard 1er Rugiens 1989
Medium ruby, touched with garnet throughout. Narrow paler rim showing a touch of orange. Much more rustic than the Volnays, this is more meaty with brambly fruit and a good dollop of sousbois. Very earthy and solid, yet with a warm generosity to it. The mouth entry is still very fresh, with lots of acidity and red fruit, and the mid-palate develops a real dirty earthiness – perhaps even a touch of brett ? Really quite full-bodied with a solid tannic structure, but not a great deal of complexity. 3+
Domaine de Montille Puligny-Montrachet er Caillerets 1999
Fairly pale lemon/gold. Initially quite reticent, the nose really began to flower after an hour or so. Very intense citrus and minerality with just a touch of honey and herbs. Really quite lovely. The mouth entry is quite full and yet fresh and seems to expand in your mouth. The mid-palate has good intensity, showing ripe apples, citrus and mineral flavours, with good depth and superb balance. Very dry, and yet creamy. Finish is long and intense and quite firm today. A lovely wine that promises more in the future – say another 3 or 4 years in magnum, perhaps ready from a bottle.
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