Trauma
By Peter | June 24, 2008
I decided tonight - as an addendum to the 1998 tastings - to open my solitary bottle of Rousseau’s Chambertin, thinking to add the tasting note to those already there. I know you are already ahead of me : it was corked. Interestingly corked though. On the nose I first thought “is it corked ?”. Perhaps, but there is some fine wine here anyway. The palate confirmed that it really was corked, but again that it is a fine wine underneath. Within 10 minutes the wine was overwhelmed and undrinkable. It was as though the wine, weakened by a decade of poison was still fighting for its life. I’ve never experienced this before. But I still feel inclined to search out some better bottles !
TN : Clear and bright, quite pale blood/ruby, with a touch of garnet and some bricking showing on the rim. To be honest, the colour did make me wonder whether all would be well. On first opening, the nose has magnificent intensity : freshly turned earth, rich, woody, spice and rich dark fruit. The darkness of the fruit and a sort of bitterness on the nose made me question again whether all was well. The mouth confirmed definite cork taint, but with a richly fruited, sweet and fresh wine beneath. There is real density and class to the wine, and a good long finish. Magnificent but marred - underneath is absolutely the best 1998 I’ve tasted yet. It seems that the domaine went very easy on the extraction and retained really good freshness, only to lose it all to the demon cork.
Sic transit gloria mundi.
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Recipe : “Bourgogne à la 1998”
By Peter | June 20, 2008
“Despite what you may have heard or read, the 1998 red Burgundies at the mid to top levels are very good and at the highest levels, they are nothing short of phenomenal.” – Allen Meadows (Burghound) in 2001
“all of this focus on the potential pitfalls of the vintage does not do justice to the large number of truly fine wines made in 1998 … should hit their peaks around their tenth birthdays, and drink well for twenty or so years after that. In short, they are outstanding wines that deliver all of the glories that Burgundy can offer. If they do not quite possess the same dimension of the best wines of 1999 or 1993, there is still great pleasure to be had amongst the stars of this underrated vintage.” – John Gilman in 2004
Of course headlines like “1998 – not as bad as you think” don’t do much to motivate the market, and tasting the wines didn’t help either. The 1998s I tried in the first five years after bottling ranged from unpleasantly hard to undrinkably hard. So were our sages right ? If so, then the top wines have been both underrated and undervalued. Ten years on, it seemed a good time to evaluate a score of wines from this often maligned vintage, and offer some guidance on where - if anywhere - the better wines lie. Oh, and just in case you are wondering, the recipe (and shopping list) are at the end of this little essay….
The first thing to note is that this is a low yielding vintage – often as low as 20 hl/ha (for comparison in 1999 some appellations allowed yields as high as 50 hl/ha). Density and concentration are almost a given. The Achilles heel of the vintage however, and probably the thing on which its reputation rests, is the generous tannins from small, thick-skinned grapes. If a producer then extracted heavily, and oaked generously then we can expect no pleasure from the wine by now.
Always in Burgundy we should look to the producer first, and the appellation second, and in 1998 this is more than ever true. There were so many pitfalls that it took great skill and judgement – and perhaps even luck – in both the vineyard and cellar to turn in a good result. The problems include:
- small berried fruit thanks to very dry weather through a large part of the growing season
- intense heat in July and the first part of August, dehydrating the fruit and in some case causing the vines to “shut down”
- heavy rain in late August and September, bringing some development of rot around harvest time
Harvesting began from September 17th with more rain making the choice of picking time critical. Growers who waited were rewarded with both better physiological ripeness in the grapes (the earlier heat-induced shutting down having delayed proper ripening) and a period of clear cool weather. In the end, the smart/lucky growers got fruit that was mainly small-berried, with good sugar levels and acceptable acidities. The final step to achieve good quality was thorough sorting, eliminating any rot or under-ripe fruit. After all this it’s easy to see how yields were so very low !
Finally, the testing nature of the vintage continued in the cellar where it was essential to handle the grapes gently and not indulge in extended maceration. I also suspect that lower fermentation temperatures will have given better balanced wines in this vintage, though can’t be definitive on this limited sampling. On top of all this, whilst the density is sufficient in most wines, this vintage’s typical balance between fruit, sweetness and acidity did not lend itself to heavy use of oak.
I hope that has been heavy reading - it must have been heavy work for the successful vignerons. They were rewarded, as you will be if you select carefully, with full-bodied, sappy wines that are well-structured and with great intensity of flavour. They are generally coloured by a sort of warm sturdiness, and are less exciting – as a result of lower acidities – than the equivalent ‘93s or ‘99s. Certainly the great wines of ’98 seem to be those with the best acids, and this is a key feature to look for in the vintage.
The better wines are NOT as hard or tannic as their reputation suggests and are now starting to drink nicely. I have come to be very wary of anything that isn’t yet attractive, and suspect that they may never come round to a satisfactory balance.
Life is too short to drink poor ‘98s, but you shouldn’t miss out on the great ones ! They do reflect their terroirs quite well, and can provide thoroughly satisfying drinking over the next 5 years or so – while you wait for the ‘93s and ‘99s to be ready,
The recipe:
Wait for properly ripe fruit with good acidity, sort carefully for rot. Avoid overheating, and do not over-season. Bottle young, and mature in a cool, dark place for 10 to 15 years. Formidable !
The shopping list:
1998 as a whole has quite a lot of chaff to sort from the wheat, and you may well feel that it’s not worthwhile, but there are very good wines, and they are (currently) good value. If you want to pick out the best wines I would suggest only buying where you can find a fairly recent tasting note that you trust. Then eliminate wines that have none of the + or more than one of the – attributes below:
+ fresh, acidity, balance, red fruit
- tough, structured, hard, hollow, oak, metallic, black colour
The tasting notes:
For interest, I have also included older tasting notes on 2 of the wines, so that you can see the extent of opening up that has taken place over the last couple of years.
Ambroise, Corton-Rognet 1998
Very dark ruby - almost black in the core. Big black fruit on the nose, with a spicy perfumed edge and a touch of tarriness beneath. Bright, brash, black fruit on the palate with a hefty dose of oaky spice. Full and complex on the mid-palate with earthy and meaty flavours under the black fruit, but quite a tannic bite still on the finish. Should do very well with (much) more time.
***
Barthod, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Charmes 1998
Clear bright medium blood/ruby. Slight paler rim. Looks just a little aged, but there is no discernible browning. Nose of fresh red fruit with a nice floral lift and a distinct farmyard touch. Mouth entry is clean and perfectly balanced. Sweet juicy fruit, good acidity. On the mid-palate a sense of mineral earthiness develops, and again some floral tones. Finish is long, persistent and well-balanced. Very good indeed. Drink now and over the next 5 years.
****
,Barthod, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras 1998
Good lively colour - nice blood/ruby. Slightly spicy, chocolatey, red fruit on the nose. Mouth entry is cool, again with a chocolatey touch in front of earthy raspberry fruit. Medium bodied and savoury, with good balance and slightly dry tannins. Finish is quite long, spicy and full. One to hold longer.
***
Burguet, Gevrey-Chambertin Vielles Vignes 1998
Deep blood/ruby. Narrow paler rim shows just a touch of brick. Powerful nose. Deep and earthy with lovely ripe red and black fruits - raspberries and plums together. A sprinkling of oak spice and a touch of meatiness make this really attractive. Mouth entry is broad and quite gentle, but with nice ripe raspberry, blackberry and plum fruit and enough balancing acidity. Fills the mouth gradually. A real sense of mineral earthiness and a touch of oak showing on the mid-palate. Finish is long and beautifully balanced. A terrific village wine that is drinking really well now, but not for keeping.
bare ***
Chevillon, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Cailles 1998
Quite deep cherry/ruby, good depth of colour to the rim, and some distinct signs of browning in the rim. Very fine nose : spicy rich cherry fruit with touches of tobacco leaf and a real meaty undercurrent. Mouth entry is soft and smooth with nice fresh red fruit and a lovely richness to it. Mid-palate is quite full, with beautifully integrated flavours : spicy and savoury with nice rich fruit. Finish is lovely - long and savoury with just a touch of sweet cherry fruit. Just a touch four-square but very well balanced : a very good ‘98. Drink now and over the next 5 years.
top ***
de Montille, Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds 1998
Opened, decanted, and served immediately. Pale bright blood red. Nose is very crisp and yet richly scented at the same time - lovely floral and mineral topnotes over red fruit, with a touch of oak spice and some brambly fruit at the very bottom. Mouth entry is perfectly poised, with lovely smoky, spicy red fruit. Only medium weight but broad somehow - without gaps. Perfect balancing acidity and a touch of unresolved tannins still on the very long finish. Very good stuff that will benefit from a few more years in the cellar.
****
Faiveley, Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Les Saint Georges 1998
Quite deep blood red. Narrow paler rim shows hardly any sign of age (nor of youth). Nose is warm and earthy with Asian spices - clove, cinammon, anise - and just a touch of plummy fruit. Mouth entry is quite full and tough, and yet not heavy. Mid-palate shows dark and earthy with touches of chocolate but no fruit to speak of. This is a big and well-stuctured wine, that I suspected of being TCA tainted - enough to strip the fruit but not reveal itself. However a second bottle showed exactly the same, so perhaps it is a typically backward Faiveley wine that remains resolutely closed for now. I will hold and hope.
NR
Georges Mugneret, Clos Vougeot 1998
Quite dark blood red, just a hint of age. Full and plummy nose with great complexity - floral tones, a touch of spice, a medicinal edge and some meatiness as well. Very smooth mouth entry with lovely fresh acidity and nice red fruit. Full flavoured but not at all big or heavy. Clean long finish. A very good wine indeed. Now to 2020.
*****
Girardin, Clos de la Roche 1998
Quite dark blood/ruby - touch of tawniness in the rim. A very gamey, meaty nose showing plummy fruit, some kirsch, and oak spice. Voluptuous more than enticing. Mouth entry is full and slightly sweet with ripe blackberry fruit and meaty flavours, Quite full-bodied and long lasting sweet flavours, but with a tannic bite on the mid-palate. Full and satisfying. Drink now with food rather than holding.
**
Grivot, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Pruliers 1998 (Jun 2007)
From a half decanted from the whole bottle and resealed…3 days on. Still dark blood red, but with just discernible browning on the rim. Fabulously rich rustic nose of earth, game and very ripe plums. Mouth entry is velvety and the tannins have really softened up. There is almost ghostly sweet redcurrant fruit with a nice peppery spice on the palate - not great weight but nicely balanced. Finish is still tannin dominated but of decent length. Good with cold meats, but not on its own. The fading fruit and still forceful tannins make me think this should be drunk in the next 5 years.
**
Grivot, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Pruliers 1998 (May 2004)
Good dense colour - really dark blood red, fading towards rim, but no discolouration. Nose is a bit metallic at first, but opens out, with stony/black cherry and roast pork underneath. In the mouth it is very tight and structured, with well balanced acid wood and tannin. But is there enough fruit here to last?
NR
Jadot, Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Ursules 1998
Lovely bright blood/ruby. Quite broad paler rim, just a touch of bricking showing. Nose is warm and spicy with red fruits and a touch of pine forest floor. Lovely smooth and rich mouth entry with ripe fat cherry fruit. Quite a bit of tannin beneath, but bright, fresh and well poised. Medium weight, but seems just a little light on the mid-palate, with a long spicy finish. Good, but I would give this another 5 years to really shine.
**
Jadot, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Boudots 1998
Lovely bright blood/ruby. Quite broad paler rim, just a touch of pink in the rim showing the very first signs of age. Quite rich spicy earthy nose : a lot more to it than the Bousselots and Beaune Ursules. Full and velvety mouth entry with quite ripe dark fruit. Mid-palate is ample and richly spicy, with quite a firm tannic structure and a slightly dry earthy finish. More to it than the Beaune but no more ready.
top **
Jadot, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Bousselots 1998
Medium ruby, decent depth of colour to the rim, which is just showing slight signs of bricking. Nose is quite tight with rich cherry fruit and a touch of earthiness. Not as rustic as you might expect. Mouth entry is quite flat - even dull - but fullish. Nice deep weighty, earthy red fruits on the mid-palate and a nicely “delicately rustic” fading away at the end. Not big but very well balanced - except for a touch of grippy tannin on the finish. I don’t think this one has anywhere to go.
bare **
Lafarge, Volnay “Vendanges Selectionnees” 1998
Medium garnet/ruby. Fades gracefully to the rim. Touch of bricking throughout. Nose is of very ripe cherry with touches of sweat and kirsch, and with a delicate spicy earthiness beneath. Quite sexy, but without being classy. Mouth entry is silky and yet also very firm, showing prominent tannins and sweet red fruit. Mid-palate is medium weight but somehow a touch hollow. Seems overripe and overtannic, yet without enough fruit density. I can’t see this getting better.
*
Maume, Mazis-Chambertin 1998
Nice bright blood red - not great intensity of colour, but a slight purplish tinge and only a very narrow paler rim. A delightful burgundian nose of exotic spices and violets over dark fruits and earthy notes. Not a fine nose, but very striking and well balanced. In the mouth it is firm and full-flavoured, quite sweet fruit with good tannic structure and oak still a little to the fore. Very good wine, that can be drunk now but will continue to improve.
***
Ponsot, Chapelle-Chambertin 1998
Medium ruby/garnet. Broad paler rim with a distinct touch of bricking. Soft gentle tea and spice nose, quite rich fruitcake type fruit but only medium intensity. Very soft and gentle mouth entry. Ripe red fruit and fruitcake on the mid-palate with robust tannins behind. Quite classy, but not big, and over-endowed with tannins. Should develop for a few more years.
***
Ponsot, Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes 1998
Pale and tawny blood red, with some age showing. Gentle, floral nose, quite a touch of sousbois. Classy, but very quiet. On the palate again unassuming - gentle oaky plummy fruit. Although the wine it still fresh and very firm there is a sort of faded grandeur to it. Delightful in a very understated way. (I hope) this might just be a little closed still, and could put on weight. Try in another year, and if it’s no better then drink up.
***
Potel, Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes 1998 (Nov 2007)
Medium ruby, good colour to the rim. On opening, the fine redcurrant and spice nose is submerged by brett, and the medium weight fresh red fruit leads to a very dry mid-palate. After half an hour the brettiness has eased and the nose is really quite fine with floral touches. The wine is still somewhat drying but with food is super. After 5 hours the nose is quite stable - fresh/floral redcurrant and oaky spice. Mouth entry is acidic but supple with clean red fruit and oak spiciness. Medium/full and very classy palate, just a touch of drying oak still showing on the finish. Good length. Keep and hope.
**
Potel, Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes 1998 (Aug 2006)
Bright dark cherry colour. Lovely firm spicy red fruit nose, some oak showing. Strikingly dry, even overtannic, in the mouth - with a metallic edge that could be rot. Decent weight of fruit, but both the palate and the (long) finish are marred by this austerity. To be honest, I’m not sure whether it will ever come round.
NR
Serafin, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers 1998
Nice blood/ruby colour, distinct touch of orange. Smoky, earthy, nose - almost medicinal - with black fruit and a touch of kirsch. A pleasure to smell this one over and over. Clean, fresh black fruit on the mouth entry. Quite robust and earthy on the mid-palate. Good long sweet and spicy finish. Very good stuff. Now - 2015.
****
Serafin, Gevrey-Chambertin Vielles Vignes 1998
Lovely deep limpid ruby. Just a touch of orange showing on the narrow paler rim. Vibrant nose - oak led, layered fruitcake. Lovely richness and depth of red and black fruits, with a nicely lifted spicy frame. Great stuff ! Mouth entry is full, firm and yet fresh. Mid-palate shows underlying oak with very rich fruit : black cherries and plums. A little gamey touch adds satisfying complexity. Tannic frame is still very firm and protrudes just a touch on the finish, demanding to be served with food at present. The good length finish retains freshness. Super wine in a modern, buxom, style that has the fruit and balance to improve further - though not for the oak-averse !
top **
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Volnay – Dancing on the dark side
By Peter | June 19, 2008
A quick report on a delightful tasting last week, organised by Genesis Wines, and hosted by Etienne de Montille. All the wines came from the Domaine’ reserves and were in tip-top condition.
The top wines – nay, all the wines - of this Domaine are fairly austere, and seem to need 10 to 15 years, even in the lighter vintages to become approachable. The Volnay Mitans that we tried, and which inspired the title, was deep and dark and seemed to have a really wild, animal fur aspect to it. Les Mitans lies low down on the slope, below the village and near to les Carelles and les Angles. Not particularly auspicious terrain, and I wouldn’t have expected it to have this character, which Etienne ascribed to the fact that their vines here suffer from “dégeneracion”. Fanleaf degeneration is a incurable viral disease, which gives, as you might expect, deformed leaves, poor fruit set and very small berries. These small, thick-skinned berries give the much darker, denser more spicy/meaty character than you might normally expect from Volnay.
The same character was evinced in the ‘93 and ‘95 served. The ’95, though almost ready, was at a much lower level of intensity and satisfaction than the ’93 which is probably still 5 years away from its peak..
These were followed by the Pommard Rugiens ’89, the last vintage of apprenticeship for Etienne before he took full control with the ‘90s. This didn’t have the class that I expected, although perhaps that is down to the fairly loose-knit character of the vintage. It was full, square, a little meaty and firmly tannic - quite Pommard in fact. It’s fair to say that I had much higher hopes for this wine, which was acceptable rather than exciting.
I loved the intensity and character of the Domaine red wines, though they were not universally liked. If there were one complaint it would be a lack of finesse – though perhaps the ’93 will get there in time. The negociant wines “Maison deUX Montille” were rather bland and forward by comparison. To round off the evening, the Domaine Puligny Caillerets 99 “en magnum” - and perfectly matched with Berkswell, a soft, washed rind cowsmilk cheese - was a real treat.
Pol Roger 1999
Seemed a little closed and even oxidised at first, but opened up nicely. Really vibrantly fruity – for me apricots – and nicely bready. Just a touch of licorice bitterness on the finish puts me off. 3
Deux Montille Pernand-Vergelesses Sous Fretille 2005
Green fruited, rather fatty nose. Broad but rather unfocused, with a nicely judged very light use of oak. Well made but uninspiring, and not for keeping. 3-
Deux Montille Meursault Poruzots 2005
Vibrant spicy, appley nose. Nice nuttiness underneath with a touch of bacon fat. Worryingly also a touch oxidative and rather flabby. Mouth shows real poise and crisp fruit : rather better than the nose, but with traces of sherry and peardrops on the back end. I would worry about incipient POX with this so worth checking on if you have any. 3+
Deux Montille Chambolle-Musigny Babilleres 2005
Very deep ruby, quite beautiful to look at. No paler rim to speak of. Frivolous nose – lots of cherry fruit, but also a touch estery – perhaps cherry lozenge is the best description. Very delicately oaked – lovely soft and flowery mouth entry with fairly good depth of red and black fruits. The oak shows on the mid-palate, but isn’t at all overpowering. Really quite easy. Too easy – it doesn’t offer any interest for me. Quite short on the finish but smooth and complete. Drinking nicely now, but not a long keeper, and no apparent relation of the estate wines. 3
Domaine de Montille Volnay 1er Mitans 1993
Quite amazingly dark blood/ruby. Narrow paler rim with just a touch of brick. Beautiful, vibrant nose that both shocks and seduces – lots of perfume and dark fruits rolled up with animal fur. Shows great depth and minerality - quite awesome. Mouth entry is powerful with vibrant red fruits and striking acidity. Medium/full-bodied on the mid-palate which shows rich cherry and bramble fruit with loads of depth and just a touch of gaminess. Finish is long, sweet and earthy. This was hugely enjoyable with the lamb served, but tasted alone later the tannic structure is still quite commanding. Without doubt the best red wine of the night, and still 5 to 10 year from its peak. 4+
Domaine de Montille Volnay 1er Mitans 1995
Only mid ruby – shockingly light when compared to the ’93 served alongside, they must have really dialled back the extraction here – fading gracefully at the rim, which is showing some bricking. The terroir is striking here – with the character of the nose exactly the same as the ’93 but less intense, perhaps even a touch ponderous. Mouth entry is lovely and velvety with quite some spice showing. Mid-palate is just medium weight, a touch estery and with ripe red fruit and sousbois. Tannins a touch bitter on the finish. More advanced than the ’93, this doesn’t have the depth or class. 3+
Domaine de Montille Pommard 1er Rugiens 1989
Medium ruby, touched with garnet throughout. Narrow paler rim showing a touch of orange. Much more rustic than the Volnays, this is more meaty with brambly fruit and a good dollop of sousbois. Very earthy and solid, yet with a warm generosity to it. The mouth entry is still very fresh, with lots of acidity and red fruit, and the mid-palate develops a real dirty earthiness – perhaps even a touch of brett ? Really quite full-bodied with a solid tannic structure, but not a great deal of complexity. 3+
Domaine de Montille Puligny-Montrachet er Caillerets 1999
Fairly pale lemon/gold. Initially quite reticent, the nose really began to flower after an hour or so. Very intense citrus and minerality with just a touch of honey and herbs. Really quite lovely. The mouth entry is quite full and yet fresh and seems to expand in your mouth. The mid-palate has good intensity, showing ripe apples, citrus and mineral flavours, with good depth and superb balance. Very dry, and yet creamy. Finish is long and intense and quite firm today. A lovely wine that promises more in the future – say another 3 or 4 years in magnum, perhaps ready from a bottle.
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There’s more to Pinot than Burgundy, but not much more
By Peter | March 28, 2008
A mite tabloid on the headline perhaps, but I have found only a handful of wines that have the balance, poise and quality of expression of a good Burgundy. Obviously they are different in style, and cost as much as Burgundy (in the UK anyway) …… but you didn’t expect anything different did you ?
Anyway, all this started simply as the search for some top class New Zealand Pinot Noir to add to our list, but has ended up as a rambling monster of some 80 tasting notes. I have missed out the Burgundies that crept in, but the likes of Italy, Bulgaria and the Loire remain to provide a fascinating overview of Pinots on the market today.
My conclusion is that Burgundy still produces something special, but that the best producers in the cooler climate regions are getting closer and closer to the quality level of top Burgundy, albeit mostly in different styles. In the relatively more established regions such as California and New Zealand we are starting to get wine made from older vines, and from better clonal selections at that. This has an enormous influence on the quality, which for the majority of wines is way better than it was a decade ago. In addition the best producers - many of whom have done time in Burgundy - have learnt how to manage their particular vineyards and winemaking choices to avoid the demons of over-extraction and excess alcohol. However, they are also learning to market their wines better, and for the most part are heading down the track of establishing “single vineyard terroir” wines, with price tags to match. So, no bargains, but there are some very good wines indeed.
At lower price levels there are good wines to be found, but you will need to search (or have a good guide) to find them. New Zealand is an obvious hunting ground, but you should also consider the cooler climate areas of South America. Chile and Patagonia in particular offer some really good values, and deserve to be watched closely as the vineyards mature. If you haven’t read my note on Ocio before, do have a look under “New World Pretenders“.
All these wines were tasted during January and February this year, for the most part at two major tastings. You can read all the tasting notes - if that sort of thing grabs you - here.
A final word of advice - if you find any of the Escarpment single vineyard wines, grab them. You won’t regret it (and if you do, I’ll buy them off you !). I have tried without success to get any from the importer, but they must be around somewhere……
RECOMMENDED QPR WINES
Wine (Region) - Typical Retail Price - My Score
* indicates a wine that we are, or will be, listing, and the price is ours !
£ 15 and under
Torres, Mas Borras (Penedes) - £ 15 - 3+
Escarpment (Martinborough) - £ 15 - 3+
Malma Classico (Patagonia) - £ 9 - 3-
Miroglio, Tracia Sant’Ila (Bulgaria) - £ 9 - 3-
De Martino, Parcela 4 (Chile) - £ 11 - 3-
£ 15 to £ 25
Escarpment Kupe (Martinborough) - £ 23 - 4+
Escarpment Moana (Martinborough) - £ 23 - 4+
* John Forrest Collection (Waitaki) - £ 19.30 - 4
Tarrawarra (Yarra) - £ 17 - 4-
Te Mania Reserve (Nelson) - £ 17 - 4-
* Chamonix Reserve (Franschhoek) - £ 16.20 - 4-
Over £ 25
* Littorai Hirsch (Sonoma Coast) - £ 48.50 - 5
* Michelle Richardson (Central Otago) - £ 26.00 - 4+
Felton Road Block 5 (Central Otago) - £ 33 - 4
* Neudorf Moutere (Nelson) - £ 24.50 - 4
Special Offer Half Dozen “Best of the New World” :
1 bottle each of
* Chamonix Reserve 2006
* John Forrest Collection Waitaki Valley 2006
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With detailed notes, including delivery for £ 149, a 5% discount off our list prices.
We have only 6 cases remaining, please order off the website (just type “new” in the search box) or email us if you would like to grab one.
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Tasting the 2005s with the MWs
By Peter | March 6, 2008
Last week I attended the Institute of Masters of Wine tasting of 2005 Burgundies, rubbing shoulders with the great and good. As you might expect, it was a superbly organised tasting, though the atmosphere was a little like an outing of Trappist monks to the British Library Reading Room. Rumours of their closure have been greatly exaggerated, as the 2005 reds continue to show very well - although for the most part rather reticent on the nose. On the other hand, the whites are broadly disappointing, with most being rather too “easy”, lacking both acidity and structure.
My full tasting notes are now up on their own page here. For anyone looking for the quick gen, here are my picks :
Drinking Whites
- Pierre Morey, Bourgogne Chardonnay
- Simon Bize, Savigny 1er Vergelesses
High-end Whites
- Faiveley, Chablis GC Clos - the only Chablis that came anywhere near the mark for me
- Leflaive, GC Batard-Montrachet
- Bonneau du Martray, GC Corton-Charlemagne
All of these were very good wines, but were more forward and less structured than I would expect
Lesser Reds
- Faiveley, Mercurey 1er Clos du Roy
- Bize, Savigny 1er Marconnets
Cote de Beaune
- Montille, Beaune 1er Greves
- Faiveley, Beaune 1er Clos l’Ecu
- Montille, Volnay 1er Champans
- Lafon, Volnay 1er Santenots - OUTSTANDING
- Tollot-Beaut, Corton GC Bressandes
Cote de Nuits
- Gouges, Nuits-St-George 1er Pruliers - the Clos des Porrets was also good, but this is the pick of the two
- Mugnier, Nuits-St-Georges 1er Clos de la Marechale
- Roumier, Chambolle-Musigny - the best village level wine I tasted, though the Rousseau Gevrey also deserves a mention in a beefier style
- Clair, Gevrey 1er Clos St Jacques - lovely aromatics, though a little slight compared to the Rousseau
- Rousseau, Gevrey 1er Clos St Jacques - OUTSTANDING
- Roumier, GC Bonnes Mares - OUTSTANDING
- Mugnier, GC Bonnes Mares - OUTSTANDING
- Trapet, GC Chambertin - OUTSTANDING
With the Mugnier at £500 and the Roumier at £700 (both per bottle i.b.), I would say the best value of these top wines is the Lafon Volnay at just under £1000/cs i.b. ! Or you could consider buying some older wines at much more reasonable prices - and not have to wait 10 more years to drink them …
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Now Broking … and the top 2000 gets 97 pts
By Peter | February 1, 2008
Just a quick note to advise you that we now have the beginnings of a Broking List up and running. The star attraction is a small collection of Roumier’s Amoureuses, mostly from great vintages, but there are some other lovely wines to tempt you aswell ! All, of course, are from good provenance. Do take a look at the selection here.
Robert Parker just published the results of the EWS blind tasting of Grand Crus from 2000 - and we have the top rated wine in stock ! The Mazis-Chambertin Cuvee B from Dominique Laurent is drinking beautifully today, and we have it at just £ 66.00 /bottle VAT and duty paid - much the cheapest available in the UK on wine-searcher today. Parker’s report, for those of you who subscribe, is available here.
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New in stock: Everyday drinking and classic mature wines
By Peter | February 1, 2008
Just a few words to introduce the new stock lines - including, in response to customer requests, the first couple of a limited range of white wines. As ever, quantities are limited, and once it has gone, it has gone!
1996 - Robert Chevillon, Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Les Saint Georges
Wonderful classy Nuits – top producer, top vineyard - only £ 49/bt … BUY
1996 - Domaine Philippe Naddef, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers
Generous easy-drinking Gevrey with god typicity. Just £ 35.50/bt … BUY
2004 - Gachot-Monot - Côte de Nuits Villages ‘Les Chaillots’
Clean lithe and earthy. A house red for Burghounds, at £ 13.90 /bt … BUY
2004 - Etienne Sauzet, Bourgogne Blanc ‘La Tufera’
Lovely, fresh, wannabe Puligny for just £ 15.50 /bt … BUY
1995 - Bernard Morey - Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot
Full and ripe, in typical Morey style. At its peak and only £ 27.50/bt … BUY
1976 - Bouchard Aine - Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
From a good cellar - poor labels but great wine. £ 89.50/bt … BUY
1978 - Gros Frere et Sœur, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
A perfect 30 year old, totally enchanting. Great mature burgundy : £ 118/bt … BUY
1978 - Gros Frere et Sœur, Vosne-Romanee
Properly mature burgundy for only £ 46/bt ! … BUY
1998 - Ghislaine Barthod - Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Charmes
Soft, elegant, complex and concentrated. A truly great ’98, for just £ 47.50/bt … BUY
1996 - Dom. des Lambrays - Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru
Lambrays back on form. Drink or keep. £ 46/bt … BUY
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Tasting Dinner: Judges Hotel, Yarm, 29th February 2008
By Peter | February 1, 2008
I am delighted to be hosting a special “Dining Club” Dinner at Judges Hotel, Kirklevington in North Yorkshire later this month. Here is the menu, and accompanying wines:
Canapes
2006 - Bourgogne Aligote, Domaine Sarrazin
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Deep Fried Frog’s Legs, White Onion Foam
2004 - Bourgogne Blanc « La Tufera », Etienne Sauzet
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Presse of Corn Fed Chicken and Foie Gras, Quince and Hazelnut Salad
1995 - Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeots, Bernard Morey
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Apple & Calvados Sorbet
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Roast Loin of Lamb, Flavours of Provence
1996 - Nuits St. Georges, Jean Chauvenet
1993 - Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds, Bitouzet-Prieur
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Cheese - Epoisses, Chaource, Beaumont
2004 Cotes de Nuits Villages « Les Chaillots », Gachot-Monot
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Tonka Bean Creme Brulee, Rhubarb Sorbet
Marc Tres Vieux de Bourgogne, Cartron
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Coffee & Petits Fours
For tickets, priced at £ 75.00, please contact the hotel on 01642-789000
Topics: Events, HPB News | 1 Comment »
2006 - A patchy vintage : buy with caution…
By Peter | January 23, 2008
I wanted to share with you my view of the 2006s, after tasting through a lot of cask samples in London earlier this month. Do please remember that these are mostly unfinished wines - many were poor samples, and even those that were good may well not be representative of the finished wine. Then there is always the question of development in cask prior to bottling … If in doubt speak to your merchant about their view of any wines that may interest you. And finally - if still in doubt, don’t part with your money. Despite all the hullabaloo this is not an investment vintage and most wines are not “rushing off the shelves” : they will (except for the trophies) almost certainly be available later on without a great premium.
I found the whites for the most part pleasing and voluptuous, though there were plenty of poor samples and plenty of wines with insufficient acidity for keeping. I would say that you can buy lesser wines for drinking this year or next with confidence. The higher quality wines need very careful selection, and to be honest I am not buying at this level. Unease about both the balance for longer term keeping and premature oxidation means that I will buy these wines when they are mature. So read my notes (and others of course !) and enjoy the quaffing whites.
The reds were a very pleasant surprise, with many really good wines that were almost up there with 2005. The style is more fluid, transparent and earlier drinking, but there are some very classy wines indeed. On the other hand there are also many examples of over-ripeness - giving very sweet wines lacking in balancing acidity - and over-extraction - giving too heavy a tannic structure. Sometimes even the top producers don’t seem to have scored with all their wines. I point a few of these out below, but there are obviously many more wines that I haven’t tasted, so again, choose very carefully if you want to buy. If you can trust your merchant, take their advice.
For me, the best wine of the tastings was the Mugneret-Gibourg Echezaux, though there are many worthy runners-up. I would particularly recommend, at their price points :
Remi Rollin, Bourgogne Aligote (£ 60/cs)
Chandon de Brialles, Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru Lavieres (£ 159/cs)
Deux Montille, Meursault Tessons (£ 260/cs)
Chevillon, Nuits-St.Georges 1er Cru Vaucrains (£ 330/cs)
You can peruse all the (120 odd) tasting notes here.
Topics: Tasting Notes | No Comments »
Manchester Delights
By Peter | January 22, 2008
Late last year I travelled to Manchester for a Burgundy tasting organised though the UK Wine Forum which is hosted by Tom Cannavan on wine-pages.com. It was a thoroughly splendid evening with quite a few surprises. I came away hugely impressed by the Leflaive Clavoillon and the Richebourg and Clos Vougeot from various members of the Gros family. The latter so much so that I hunted down some 1978 to add to our list. Also impressive were the Meerlust P.N., and the Bousse d’Or 1993. If you haven’t discovered the wine forum yet, do give it a look : we’re a welcoming if somewhat geeky lot, and the tastings, known as offlines, are happening all over the country.
1993 St Romain ‘Sous Roche’, Domaine Fief de Montjeu
Light nutty nose - suggests maturity, a touch of sherry too. Palate is clean and crisp - light appley fruit and a touch of honeyed spice. Not long or classy, but nice. *
1998 Chablis Grand Cru Grenouilles, Louis Michel
Quite a nutty yellow gold. Oxidised ? Very sweet and nutty on the nose, doesn’t seem quite right. Soft and open on the palate - only a touch of acidity, and a caramel note. Oxidised but not gone. *
2002 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros, Brocard
Clean pale greenish straw. Fresh, almost minty, green fruit on the nose. Quite full in the mouth, with really fresh acidity almost hidden under the rich fruit. Very well composed, still a touch of mint on the finish. Very nice today, but should be much more to come **(*)
2002 Le Montrachet Grand Cru, Fontaine-Gagnard
Quite pale straw colour. Very nice crisp nose - really enticing spiced buttery apples and white flowers. Great, soft, mouth with perfect balance. Ripe fruit, oak, quite full and again a touch minty. Nice finish. ***
1995 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Garenne, Louis Jadot (Duc de Magenta)
Medium gold, showing some age. Very flat on the nose, corked.
2000 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon, Domaine Leflaive
Pale straw. Quite rich and oily nose, with a floral touch. Takes about half an hour to open up properly to a really rich and spicy nose. Lovely cool poised mouth entry, very spicy and complex. Quite full and a long finish. Excellent - pips the Montrachet for me. ****
1987 Henschke “White Burgundy”, Tillys Vineyard
Quite pale yellow. Quite flat nose, touch of lanolin. Spicy and oily in the mouth, with nice pistachio and apple flavours. Finish is a bit rustic. *
2001 St Aubin 1er Cru Murgers des Dents de Chien, Domaine Jean Chartron
Quite pale. Nice fresh nose, green fruit. Clean crisp and lemony in the mouth. Rather austere but well balanced and with good length. Too young still. **
2000 Richebourg Grand Cru, Anne Gros
Nice mid ruby, barely any paler rim - just a touch of age showing. Lovely fresh Pinot fruit, a touch of spice and sousbois. In the mouth this is seamless and silky smooth, but a little lacking in acidity. Very classy finish with sweet fruit and a touch of earth. ****
1990 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru ‘Grand Maupertuis’, A&F Gros
Nice bright deep ruby, broad paler rim and distinct browning. Lovely perfume on the nose : floral, spicy and brambly. Mouth is very full, rich and smooth - almost liquid fruitcake. Superb fruit and structure, and a nice tangy finish. Top stuff. *****
1993 Volnay 1er Cru Bousse d’Or, Pousse d’Or
Quite pale ruby, but beautiful intensity. Quite broad paler rim, touched with orange. Lovely floral soft red fruit on the nose, just a touch of sousbois. Really supple and fresh in the mouth : good acidity, rich fruit and leafmould. Drinking really well today but still with a long life ahead. ****
2000 Beaujolais Ch des Jacques Champ de Coeur, Louis Jadot
Medium ruby, broad paler rim, just a touch of browning. Nice spicy cherry nose - just a touch rustic. Quite robust and chocolatey. Firm and tannic. Could be a fairly coarse Nuits, but no its Beaujolais - and showing very well in this company ! **
1991 Pommard, Chateau de Pommard
Bright pale ruby. Big paler rim, but good density. Just a touch tawny throughout. Slightly square, rustic, nose with nice red & black fruit and a touch of cocoa butter. Palate entry is quite full and smooth though again with a rustic edge and herbal undertones. Good long finish. Not classy, but savoury, rustic and interesting. **
1995 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Fuees, Faiveley
Deep ruby, slight paler rim. Very fine nose - perfumed, floral, and yet meaty. Quite big mouth entry - broad red fruit with a dark earthy undertow. Big and quite tannic on the mid-palate, and through to the finish. Needs several more years. ***
1985 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru, Domaine des Lambrays
Sadly not clean on the pour (I got the tail end of the bottle). Quite sweet beetroot nose, a touch of leafmould. Very composed, stately, mouth entry. A broad palate of meaty black fruit. Quite hefty tannins still on the sweet long finish. Very good, but not great. ***
1949 Chambertin Grand Cru, Sandeman
Pale blood/ruby. Broad amber rim. Looks darker as it is carrying a lot of sediment. Sweet and soft on the nose : kirsch and spice. Quite big mouth entry - seems more like Rhone to me from the size of it. Quite short on the finish. Robust but somehow uninteresting. *
2001 Torres Marimar, Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
Medium/pale ruby - a touch of orange in the slight paler rim. Fresh, spicy and alcoholic on the nose - seems quite ‘high’. Mouth entry is sweet and jammy, yet with a touch of the medicinal to it. Finish is really pretty much the same. Lacks distinction. **
1999 Meerlust Pinot Noir Reserve
Nice medium ruby, just a touch of browning. Nice spicy nose, a touch of game and good woodland fruits. Quite cool palate entry, spicy and red fruited, with a touch of forest floor. Lingering spicy aftertaste. Much better than the Marimar, and the best ringer of the night. ***
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